From Copenhagen to the Tyrolean Alps: Part 2 – Copenhagen, My Culinary Home
By Christian, Head Chef & Owner, Panorama Hotel Fliesserhof
In Part 1, I told you how my journey from my apprenticeship at Hotel Fliesserhof under my father through Ireland, England, and Spain shaped me. Today, I'll tell you about the city that changed everything.
Copenhagen: Where Everything Changed
Then came Copenhagen. This city changed everything.
I worked for a long time at Restaurant A.O.C (now 2 Michelin stars) under Head Chef Ronny Emborg and Restaurant Manager/Sommelier/Owner Christian Aarø. There I learned not just foraging, fermentation, and New Nordic cuisine—I learned what it means to be part of a team striving for perfection.
Ronny Emborg was an incredible mentor. He trained many of the best chefs working in the world today. And he taught me that great cooking isn't just about technique—it's about vision, discipline, and the ability to inspire a team.
My colleagues at A.O.C were exceptional. We worked hard, learned from each other, and pushed each other to excellence. Many of them are now some of the best chefs in the world, and I'm still in contact with them.
Copenhagen taught me that luxury isn't about exotic imports—it's about knowing your own landscape so intimately that you can transform local ingredients into something extraordinary.
I saw chefs foraging in forests for mushrooms. Gathering herbs from beaches. Experimenting with bacteria and yeasts to create flavors no one had tasted before.
It was revolutionary. And it felt right.
Traveling with Ronny: The World as a Classroom
Ronny Emborg (now Head Chef/Owner at Atera, 2 Michelin stars in New York) took me on many travels—to Switzerland, the United States, Greece, Austria, Germany—to work as guest chefs at events.
These experiences opened my eyes. I saw how other kitchens operate. I learned about different products, different guests, different culinary cultures. Each trip taught me something new.
I also had the honor of helping Ronny with his cookbook. This work taught me how to document recipes, how to communicate culinary ideas, and how to translate a vision into words and images.
This time with Ronny was formative. He showed me that a great chef doesn't just work in the kitchen—he shares his knowledge, inspires others, and builds a culinary community.
Restaurant Marchal: Leading a Michelin-Starred Kitchen
My defining chapter came when I became Executive Head Chef at Hotel d'Angleterre in Copenhagen—Scandinavia's finest 5-star hotel. I led Restaurant Marchal, their Michelin-starred restaurant, through some of its most successful years.
Under my leadership, we achieved:
- Restaurant of the Year
- Nominated for Best Restaurant in the Nordics
- Multiple culinary awards
- Maintained our Michelin star
It was everything I'd worked for. The pressure, the precision, the pursuit of perfection—I loved it.
The Question That Changed Everything
But I also felt something was missing.
In Michelin kitchens, you cook for critics, for Instagram, for reputation. Every plate is scrutinized. Every detail matters because the star depends on it. It's thrilling, but it's also exhausting.
I started asking myself: Who am I really cooking for?
I was cooking for people who came to take a photo. For critics looking for mistakes. For guests more interested in saying they'd been to a Michelin-starred restaurant than actually enjoying the food.
And I realized: This isn't why I became a chef.
I became a chef because I wanted to make people happy. Because I wanted to create moments people remember. Because I wanted to tell stories through food.
So I made a decision that would change everything.
What Came Next...
I decided to take a risk. To do something no one expected of me.
I left the security of Marchal and the d'Angleterre. I left the Michelin star, the prestige, the recognition.
And I opened my own restaurant.
In Part 3, I'll tell you about my entrepreneurial chapter—how I opened a brewpub with To Øl and learned lessons about hospitality that no Michelin kitchen could ever teach me.
Continued on October 18th...
Panorama Hotel Fliesserhof
Muttern 174, 6521 Fliess, Tyrol
www.fliesserhof.at/en | info@fliesserhof.at | +43 5449 52 23
